She Is Spending More Time in or Near Her Whelping Box or Area
When a pup starts to nest, shes creating what veterinarians call a whelping box or area. “This is typically a comfortable, warm space away from foot traffic, noise, and other pets,” Dunham explains. In short, its simply where she feels the most comfortable giving birth.
It is best to set the whelping box up one to two weeks before the expected delivery time to allow the mom to familiarize herself with it and feel safe having her puppies there, she adds.
You will want to have all the items for your whelping kit collected by the fifth week of pregnancy. If you dont have any old towels, ask your friends and family if they would like to donate a few to your cause. Wash any donated towels in a bleach solution and rinse them well before use. Once the towels have been cleaned, keep them stowed away in a dry place until the whelping begins. To build your whelping kit, you will need the following: 1. The phone number of a trusted veterinarian. 2. Directions and a phone number to an emergency animal hospital. 3. A crate/carrier waiting in the car for emergency vet transportation. 4. An old sheet under the crate in the car. 5. A vehicle with at least enough gas to make it to the animal hospital and back in case of an emergency. 6. A whelping box in a quiet location. It should be large enough for mom to move around with sides tall enough for her to step over. It needs guard rails to prevent mom from trampling on the pups. A whelping box with a door is especially handy. 7. Several layers of newspapers lining the whelping box. This way, when the newspapers become messy from whelping, they can be discarded layer by layer. 8. Safety scissors for cutting the umbilical cord. 9. Constant supply of old, clean towels. Keep a constant supply of clean towels on hand. There should also be clean towels or blankets in the whelping box at all times. They must be changed one to two times per day (or more, if needed).
Stage 3 Once all the puppies are born, the dam will enter the final stage of labor, which includes the full contraction of the uterus and the expulsion of any remaining fluids, blood, and placenta. Once all the pups are born, make sure that they find their way to the dam’s mammaries for their first meal. Just as breakfast is the most important meal of the day for us, the first meal of life is the most important for all newborn pups. The first milk produced by the dam is called colostrum. It’s especially rich in antibodies and nutrients that will give the pups an immunity boost. Pups that don’t get their colostrum will be especially susceptible to contagious diseases. Offer the dam a small meal with some water and see if she would like to go outside for a potty break. Leave her so that nature can take its course and she can care for her pups throughout the night. The next morning, call the veterinarian and schedule a checkup for the entire litter and the dam. Also, don’t forget to call about registration papers—it’s better to get this taken care of now while the demands on you are less than what they will be in the weeks to come. From here on out, most of your attention and the attention of your dam will be focused toward watching and ensuring a healthy start for the new pack of pouncing, nipping, playful puppies.
Stage 1 This stage includes the dilation of the cervix and uterine contractions. This is the longest stage of labor, lasting between six and 18 hours. It is as painful for the dog as it is for humans, so the dam will naturally appear restless and uncomfortable. Other symptoms of this stage that you may notice include restlessness, shivering, panting, loss of appetite/refusal to eat, vomiting, and persistent whining. Some dogs will attempt to dig or build a nest, while others will retreat to an already decided/arranged “den” area or nesting box. If you notice these signs, try to coax your dog to her whelping box and eliminate all distractions. Dogs in this stage can become quite irritable, and visitors who are not immediate family should be prohibited. At the end of this stage, the dam’s cervix will be fully dilated and ready for the pups to arrive.
Please bear in mind that not all dogs are the same, and not all dogs will present the same signs in the same order. But, by recognizing the more important signs of labor, as well as the steps you can take to make your dam as comfortable as possible, you will be on the right track towards a happy, healthy mother and litter.
The “deed” is done and the test came back positive, but how will you know when your dam’s biscuits are ready to come out of the oven? When the time comes, certain signs will indicate the onset of labor and the beginning of each stage of the labor process. Think of the signs of labor like a ladder. The signs usually appear in a set order, so as each sign presents itself, we will be moving one rung higher on the ladder.
As the time of delivery approaches, you may want to make a whelping box to provide a safe and clean area for your dog to deliver. Whelping boxes are intended to be easily accessed by the mother but escape proof for the new arrivals. You can use wood, Formica or any building material that is easy to clean. Make the box large enough for the bitch to comfortably stretch out. Make sure the sides are just low enough for the mother to step over and place the box in a warm, dry, draft-free area. If possible, try to choose a quiet and secluded area. Initially, place newspapers on the bottom of the box for easy clean up. Once all the puppies are born, place blankets or towels to provide some footing for the puppies. Be aware that you must get the bitch used to the whelping box before the birth. If not, she may make her own decision on where to have the puppies – and this may be a closet, a pile of fresh clean laundry or even in the middle of your bed! An additional suggestion is to have your dog examined by a veterinarian toward the end of pregnancy. A thorough physical exam, along with ultrasound or X-rays can help determine how many puppies you can expect. This way, you will know when she is done delivering and not just in another resting phase between pups.
As the time of delivery approaches, twice daily monitoring of the bitch’s body temperature will help alert you to the impending birth. About 24 hours before the beginning of labor, there will be a temporary drop in the body temperature. Normal temperature is 101 to 102.5 degrees Fahrenheit. Twenty-four hours prior to labor, the temperature can drop to 98 to 99 F.
Once pregnancy is confirmed, proper care of the mother-to-be is very important. Before breeding, make sure she is up to date on all her vaccinations. It is not recommended to vaccinate your dog during pregnancy. Also, make sure she is dewormed and tests negative for a bacteria known as Brucella. This bacteria can cause abortion in dogs and is also contagious to people. After breeding and conception, most bitches do well during the first 4 to 5 weeks of pregnancy and do not need any special treatments. Things start to change during the last trimester (week 5 to 6). The babies start to rapidly develop and this results in a significant nutritional drain on the mother. At this time, you may want to consider gradually changing her diet to a growth type diet or a food specifically made for pregnant or lactating bitches. Continue this diet throughout the remainder of pregnancy and until the puppies are weaned. Vitamins or other supplements are not recommended nor needed. With a proper diet, your dog will receive the proper amount of nutrients. Excessive amounts can actually result in birth defects. Do not begin feeding your dog a higher calorie food before the last trimester. This can lead to weight gain and fat deposits. This has the potential to cause difficulty in maintaining the pregnancy and can result in problems delivering the puppies.
Stage II labor is defined as the part of labor when the puppy is delivered. Visible contractions begin. The abdomen tenses and the bitch begins straining. This action will appear similar to the bitch trying to have a bowel movement. The first puppy should be delivered within 1 to 2 hours of the onset of contractions and straining. Veterinary assistance is strongly encouraged if the first puppy is not delivered within 2 hours after the onset of contractions. After delivery of the puppy, the bitch may enter a resting phase that can last up to 4 hours. Active straining will begin again and more puppies will be delivered. If you know there are additional puppies yet to be born and the resting period is longer than 4 hours, veterinary assistance is necessary. This resting phase may not occur after each delivery. Sometimes, several puppies may be born rapidly.
After the temperature drop, stage I labor begins, characterized by restlessness and anxiety. You may notice panting, pacing, refusal of food and maybe vomiting. Nesting behavior begins. This is the time to place her in the whelping box (hopefully she is already accustomed to the box). After getting settled in the whelping box, you may notice her dragging clothing or fabric to the area to form a comfortable bed. You may want to remove any clothing as whelping begins or these pieces of clothing may be permanently stained. This stage of labor typically lasts 6 to 12 hours. At the end of stage I, the cervix is completely dilated. If your dog has not started whelping within 24 hours after beginning stage I labor, veterinary assistance is recommended.
4 Things Your Dog Is Trying To Tell You | Chewy
Is your dog pregnant? If so, it’s very important for you to be able to recognize the signs of a dog in labor. When your dog goes into labor, you need to be prepared if something unexpected happens or if you have questions for your vet in Highland, Westville, or Mishawaka, IN.