Why Do Dogs Go After Tires?
Dogs go after tires because they’re territorial. Dogs bite tires and do other things like pee on them because they’re marking. Dogs have an acute sense of smell, so even something that you wouldn’t think would carry someone’s scent (like tires) does. Dogs chew on tires of both their owners and other people who have come by to warn others this is their territory.
When dogs are marking territory like this — whether it’s by biting on tires, peeing on them, or through other means — it is a display of dominance. This is not something you want to be encouraging or allowing in your dog.
Dogs are pack animals, and in every pack there is a pack leader. When a dog sees themselves as dominant, they see themselves at the top of this hierarchy. That means they believe that they are in charge of everyone — including you.
This could display itself in many ways that are much more negative than your dog biting tires. You could also see your dog being dominant and aggressive towards other dogs, or other people in the home like your husband or your roommate. Your dog being aggressive towards neighbors is something you would also need to be on the lookout for.
Clearly, none of these are things you want happening, so it’s important that you stop your dog from biting tires, and all of the problems that come along with their dominance and territoriality, right away. Failure to do so could lead to much more significant and dangerous issues for you to deal with in the very near future.
To do so, you would use behavioral training. You can go back to the first section now where we went over how to do that.
How do I stop my dog from biting tires?
It’s important to stop the behavior as soon as possible. In addition to potential injury each time it occurs, it becomes harder to stop the more often your dog does it. This is true with any behavior, but it’s particularly concerning when the behavior itself is dangerous.
One way of stopping your dog from biting tires is to make sure they can’t get to them. Leashes are one option. You can leash your dog anytime they are outside. You’ll need a firm grip on the leash in case your dog tries to bolt after a tire.
You can also fence your dog in. This keeps your dog and drivers safe. As long as your dog can’t get through or over the fence, you don’t have to worry about them catching the tire.
However, stopping the behavior isn’t as simple as not allowing them access to the tire. If they are still able to chase the tire while on the leash or inside the fence, this reinforces the behavior. As soon as they are not confined, they will undoubtedly go for the tire full steam.
When you are trying to stop the behavior, keep your dog away from tires whenever possible. Especially during the early stages, the best way to stop reinforcing the behavior is to avoid the trigger. Of course, this can be easier said than done. When someone is coming to your home, put the dog inside the house.
When you walk them, avoid main roads. The less traffic you encounter, the easier the process will be. You may also want to walk your furry friend when there’s less traffic, and avoid high traffic times. Morning and evening rush hours should be avoided.
Many dogs aren’t selective and will bite any sort of tire, particularly once they’ve found the process enjoyable. Avoid areas with bikes, skates, and skateboards. You may need to avoid parks, or certain areas of parks and trails. Skate parks should be avoided completely.
Training your dog to stop attacking tires isn’t just about avoiding exposure. It’s about controlled exposure. You’ll need to start slow. This may involve allowing your dog near a parked car or bicycle. You may also allow your dog to hear a vehicle, but not see it.
Once your dog has surpassed his tolerance level, he will react by trying to chase or bite the tire. The key is to avoid this threshold with slow and careful exposure. It should occur for small periods of time.
Once your dog attempts to chase the tire, regardless of whether or not they are confined, it will reinforce the behavior. You can’t move too slowly through this process, but you can easily move too fast. Watch your dog’s behavior. If they seem about to give chase, go back a few steps.
As your dog gets accustomed to the stimuli, slowly move closer and increase the speed of the tire. You might expect that resistance to one tire would equal resistance to all tires. However, you will need to work on each type of tire that your dog chases or is exposed to individually.
Farm Dog Chasing and Biting Vehicle Tires
DEAR DR. FOX: My mothers farm dog, a 7-year-old mostly black Lab, is a very friendly, gentle animal — except when a strange car, pickup, SUV, etc. shows up at the house, when he tries to bite the moving tires.
It is next to impossible to get him to stop. He runs in circles around the vehicle, barking and attacking. I think he believes we are joining in the chase when we scold him and try to get him to stop. Any suggestions? — D.J., Maryland Heights, Missouri
DEAR D.J.: At least the dog does not run out into the road and chase unfamiliar vehicles, which was common in the farm country when I lived in rural Illinois. Your mothers farm dog has his own ritual, which I interpret as capture-kill behavior when he bites at the rubber tires as vehicles are pulling in. He has no need to chase, like most other farm dogs I knew — he waits for his prey to come right to him!
Since he is part retriever, I would try redirecting his attacks to a few cut strips of old tire that you keep close in a secure container. Throw them away from the approaching vehicle in the driveway so he will go after them rather than the car. But first, he must be motivated to retrieve, so some playful and instructive activity to get him to eagerly retrieve would be wise.
DEAR DR. FOX: Can you give me any advice on how to install trust and calm in a 1-year-old female cat, who, according to adoption paperwork, appears to have been caged in one shelter or foster facility after another?
They told me she was “very shy” and took time to warm up to people. But the fact is, when I got her home, I realized shes not shy, shes terrified. Im a woman; the paperwork mentions that she prefers men. I cant imagine what must have happened to create this psychological damage.
The first couple of days I had her, I managed to get her to sleep in a large bed on my bed, then with her bed on a chair pulled up to my bed. She let me pet her, stayed curled up the first couple of days and by the third day, she was stretching her long legs, letting me lean over and pet and stroke her — and even rub her belly!
Then, four days after bringing her home, I had the mobile vet come to examine her. She freaked out, and since then will not come near me; she looks at me terrified and runs, spending the day and most of the night under the bed. Only recently has she started wandering the rest of the house, finding soft cat toys I purposely put out for her, playing with them during the night and napping in little cozy areas I set up for her.
Im heartbroken that she no longer trusts me; she was doing so well until the vet visit. Im giving her free access to all but one room in the house. I am being patient, not trying to pick her up, talking to her gently and hoping soon shell trust me.
Do you have any tips on animals who have been caged so long? She could not have ever been in a home or apartment — she stares at the walls, lamps, the TV as if shes never seen such things before, including windows. — M.M., Naples, Florida
DEAR M.M.: Your shy cat was beginning to bond well with you, but her flight response and terror were triggered by the “invasion” into her new territory by the veterinarian.
It will take time for her to recover, and she may always be shy of visitors. One of our ex-feral cats still runs and hides when we have visitors, but soon comes out of hiding once they are gone.
You may accelerate your cats recovery with a plug-in dispenser of the calming feline pheromone product Feliway in your bedroom and any room she frequents. A few drops of essential oil of lavender on a blanket or pillow where she naps may have some calming effect, as can soft classical music, which can serve as a sound barrier as well as a calming auditory stimulus.
Early evening is when cats are most active, so try to engage her in interactive play with a laser spotlight to chase. Also, try to brush or pet her with a soft brush or a big feather tied to a cane so you can reach her easily.
RAWHIDE RECALL OVER CHEMICAL CONTAMINATION EXPANDED
The recall of rawhide chew products by United Pet Group has been expanded to include private-label brands such as Dentleys, Essential Everyday, Good Lovin or Petco and Priority Pet. Some foreign manufacturers of the products used quaternary ammonium compound mixture, which is not approved by the Food and Drug Administration and can cause gastric irritation in dogs, in the production of the rawhide chews.
(Send all mail to [email protected] or to Dr. Michael Fox in care of Andrews McMeel Syndication, 1130 Walnut St., Kansas City, MO 64106. The volume of mail received prohibits personal replies, but questions and comments of general interest will be discussed in future columns.
Visit Dr. Foxs website at DrFoxVet.net.)
DEAR DR. FOX: We bought a female beagle pup at 8 weeks old. Shes almost 5 months now. She is, and has been, a total maniac.
We keep her in a large cage because she is impossible to deal with on any level. She goes up and down off the couch or bed and attacks (wants to play with) our two Chihuahuas and our cat. She will not stop running at hyper speed. She barks to go outside until shes out there, and as then she barks to come inside.
We make sure she has plenty of food and water, and she flips the bowls. I think you get the picture. We have less time for the other animals because shes so demanding. Shes as sweet as can be, but shes nuts.
What can we do? How can a puppy with this kind of energy be handled? — M.P., Fargo, North Dakota
DEAR M.P.: Keeping your puppy for what seems like most of the day and night in a “large cage” is likely to make her even more manic and eventually neurotic, with possibly obsessive-compulsive, anxiety-driven behavioral problems.
Have you forgotten how most puppies are? They burst with curiosity, chew on things and get into trouble; a constant “bother” if that is your attitude. Step back and see this naive and benign spirit in the adorable form of a beagle puppy who means no harm but needs your acceptance, affection, guidance and understanding to be a good canine companion.
This crazy teething and getting-into-everything phase will subside by the time she is 9 to 12 months old, but she will not mature temperament-wise until around 2 years. You have plenty of time to get her on the right path with you, using the cage as an overnight den and a short time-out place (for puppy naps) during the day only. Let her play and run around until she is exhausted, and feed her only after she has been out and had a good run. Beagles do tend to chase and bark a lot because they are a pack-hunting breed, so think about finding a younger and more active family for this adolescent dog to join, since her genes may be incompatible with your needs and wishes.
COCAINE TESTS RAISE DOPING CONCERNS AT FLORIDA TRACKS
A greyhound who won a Florida race on April 27 tested positive for cocaine exposure for the sixth time, and the incident marked Floridas 18th positive test in a four-month period.
The trainer of the 12 dogs involved in the 18 cases has had his license suspended. Although lack of follow-up and resolution in such cases means its not always clear whether drug exposure was intentional or incidental, doping has been a longtime problem in the industry, with dogs testing positive for agents from anabolic steroids to industrial solvents, and cocaine is associated with dangerous health effects in dogs.
America’s free enterprise system rolls on regardless of animal suffering and unethical exploitation where money rules over ethics, and compassion and effective animal protection enforcement is trumped by corruption and lack of funding for trained police and animal welfare inspectors, which every community needs.
(Send all mail to [email protected] or to Dr. Michael Fox in care of Andrews McMeel Syndication, 1130 Walnut St., Kansas City, MO 64106. The volume of mail received prohibits personal replies, but questions and comments of general interest will be discussed in future columns.
Visit Dr. Foxs website at DrFoxVet.net.)
DEAR DR. FOX: My vet did an extensive blood test on my 13-year-old Lhasa apso mix at our annual checkup. She said his liver count was 1,500, and he needed to take the supplement SAM-e. I don’t like giving him over-the-counter supplements, as they are not regulated by the Food and Drug Administration. What else could be done for him instead of giving him this supplement? I expressed these concerns to my vet, and she could offer no other solution. — L.H., Richmond Heights, Missouri
DEAR L.H.: I urge you to follow your veterinarians advice and give your dog this supplement. Do not worry about the lack of FDA regulations with this and other non-prescription supplements sold over the counter.
Indeed, there are some drugs approved for animal use and regulated by the FDA that are banned in other countries. Several approved and regulated human drugs are prescribed by veterinarians for companion animals without actual FDA approval, such use being termed “off-label.” To add to this confusion, we have periodic lobbying efforts by drug companies to get all vitamins and other OTC supplements off the shelves and available only with a prescription. This is clearly not to protect consumers. Just look at the criminal price hikes for many prescribed medications today, and the reported payments to other drug companies to keep generic drugs off the market to protect branded drug sales and monopolies.
For your dog, I would also discuss two other supplements with your veterinarian, namely milk thistle and vitamin B complex; also, a low-fat diet along with digestive enzymes and probiotics would be helpful.
DEAR DR. FOX: I wish to add my experience dealing with a pet loss and a fur-buddys loss. I worked with someone whose brother took both his dogs to the veterinarian when it was time to say goodbye to one of them. Because of his experience, I took both my cats, Max and Jackson, together when the time had come to say goodbye to Max. They had been together from 3 months old to 11 years old.
Jackson was very quiet and started to groom Max after he was brought in after getting a sedative, so he, too, was quiet. Then the final injection. Once there wasn’t a heartbeat, Jackson laid down beside Max, as they always did. After a while, I took a very quiet Jackson home. He searched the house often for about two weeks and cried quietly for Max. Jackson was never a “talker.” He settled in with less searching, but would sometimes just sit and sort of cry for four years. I think he dealt with the loss just as any of us would. Luckily, he did not slip into dementia as one cat I had after he lost his dog.
I recommend taking your remaining pet(s) when it’s time to say goodbye to a furry friend. They deserve to be able to say their goodbye, too. For 30-plus years, I have had to deal with this situation, and this was the first time having a best buddy with us, and it certainly seemed to be a little easier for the remainder. — B.C., Jupiter, Florida
DEAR B.C.: I appreciate your detailed observations and empathy. My book “Cat Body, Cat Mind” documents how some cats will grieve — even to the point of dementia and self-mutilation. It is disturbing that so many people do not have their eyes open (or is it their hearts?) when observing how animals behave and considering their emotions and capacity to grieve.
I would urge all who can make the appropriate arrangements with a home-visiting veterinarian to have their beloved animal companions euthanized in the home. This can be the least stressful and least disturbing method for all involved.
(Send all mail to [email protected] or to Dr. Michael Fox in care of Andrews McMeel Syndication, 1130 Walnut St., Kansas City, MO 64106. The volume of mail received prohibits personal replies, but questions and comments of general interest will be discussed in future columns.
Visit Dr. Foxs website at DrFoxVet.net.)
My Dog Chases Kids On Their Bikes And Bites Their Tires!- Tips from Al The Dog Trainer
Chasing cars and bikes — basically anything that moves quickly — is instinctual for dogs. They are predators, after all. Chasing and “attacking” moving objects can be problematic and dangerous. And the longer that your pup has been chasing cars, the more rehearsed it becomes. Practice makes perfect! It becomes a habit, a perfected and deep-rooted behavior.
Clearly car-chasing puts your pooch at a great risk of getting injured and possibly killed. Additionally, it’s a liability. Swerving to avoid your dog may mean that the car ends up injuring the driver or others around them. The same goes for bike-riders or skateboarders: your dog or the rider could easily be injured.
Let’s discuss a few things to help Duke to stay safe and calm around moving vehicles.
The first thing to do is for Wheelie Woes to identify the reasons why Duke might be chasing wheels.
Different breeds have been bred for different traits. Some dogs have been specifically bred to herd other animals and that instinct can be very strong. Not only can instinct be strong, but also highly satisfying. It can be challenging for your dog to focus on anything else. Herding dogs also instinctively nip at the heels of the livestock, so your puppers may attempt to nip at the tires of cars or bikes. Though this may be more typical of herding breeds, it’s also not impossible for other breeds, like Duke who is a pitbull.
Wild-living dogs, like wolves and coyotes, hunt for food. Again, this behavior is instinctual. Hard-wired. Prey drive is a sequence of behaviors that, one started, can be very difficult to interrupt. The process starts off with stalking, it involves chasing, and ends in killing. This instinct will be stronger in some dogs than others and some parts of the sequence — like chasing — might be stronger than others — like killing. In fact, herding is a highly specialized version of the predatory sequence that’s all about stalking and chasing.
There are lots of reasons why moving things can be scary. Cars and ATVs, for example, are loud and unpredictable. Some dogs have been under exposed to these items during their critical socialization period (3 weeks to 16 weeks), predisposing them to becoming more fearful adults. A not too uncommon reaction to something scary is to chase it (lunge, bark, and bite). The best defense is a good offense, right?
Many dogs enjoy chasing a ball or a flirt pole. It’s a game. Playing chase can be inherently self-rewarding, and this might extend to cars, bikes and other objects that move as well. Dogs play and predatory behavior can often be linked.
It is important to keep in mind, punishment is not going to get us very far in this situation. We need to take proper precautions to make sure that the behavior isn’t practiced, and we need to teach our pups what we want them to do instead. An incompatible behavior. For example, if we teach our dog to sit when greeting people, sitting incompatible with jumping up.
Dogs who are fearful can also react in undesirable ways. Especially when restricted by a leash. Dogs who are fearful enter into a fight or flight mode. With no option to flee, they may become reactive. And it probably had worked! “I bark and chase and bite, and the bike leaves!”
For fear, we can use the same strategy listed above. The most important thing is that we pair the trigger with something good (a high value treat) so that his emotional response changes from something negative and panic-inducing, to something predictable and positive. By offering treats when the trigger is visible, we can make a positive association with the car (car = treats).
Ultimately, it comes down to good management to prevent rehearsal and teaching our dogs what we would like them to do instead. Instinctual, hard-wired behaviours can be a hard habit to break, but with consistency, we can make the world a safer place for them.