How Can I Tell if My Dog is Playing or Fighting?
Before answering the question, let’s discuss the most common purposes of play for domestic dogs. Most frequently, pet dogs use play to establish status hierarchies , release energy, foster intra-species social bonding, or simply have a good time.
When play is used to establish status hierarchies usually both of the dogs are unfamiliar with one another or one of the dogs highly values status, but is insecure about his/her status relative to the other dog or to dogs in general. In such a case,
• The body carriage of the dogs will be stiffer than when play is pure fun,
• One dog may remain in a dominant position, instead of equitably allowing role reversal, and
• There will be more interruptions and less fluidity in the play movements.
Dominant positions may include mounting, placing a chin above the spine of the other dog, pawing atop the neck or back of the other dog, knocking the other dog to the ground and hovering over the dog, mouthing the ventral part of the neck of a supine dog, or laying atop a prone or supine dog while restricting its movement. Usually status-oriented play will convert to fun play once the dogs become comfortable with one another.
When play is principally to release energy and to enjoy the company of the other animal, the behaviors may mimic status establishing behaviors, fights, or predation. However, unlike with actual status conflict, fights, or predatory behavior:
• The body carriage will be loose,
• The dogs will frequently move laterally, bound freely with their front legs, or bow,
• The dogs will often rotate dominant/subordinate positions; if they don’t rotate each dog will be comfortable with its position and there will be fluidity and continuity of movement until one or both dogs becomes bored or tired,
• One or both dogs will have an open mouth (“smile”), and
• The dogs will be considerate of the other dog’s pleasure.
When there is a legitimate conflict or fight at a dog park or day care generally:
• One or both dogs will preen,
• The dogs will move more stiffly than during play,
• One or both dogs will move directly at the other dog, rather than circling, moving laterally, bounding, or bowing,
• One or both dogs will emit a direct stare toward the other dog,
• Oral contact will be hard and there may be shaking or tearing movements, versus the light mouthing or nip and release actions of play,
• Oral contact will initially occur mostly to the muzzle, ear, and top of the neck, but may progress to the ventral neck area, torso and extremities as arousal increases, and
• One or both dogs will likely growl or snarl with high volume and tenacity.
Thus, there is a characteristic intensity and directness usually common to a fight that is absent during status-oriented play or “fun play.”
Consequently, the primary observable physical factors determining whether your dog is engaged in status communication that is semi-playful or playful, fun play versus a fight include:
Nevertheless, when analyzing the intent of the dogs, physical signs are prepotent over vocalizations. Many people incorrectly become concerned when a dog growls or barks during play. Remember, while playing dogs may model agonistic or predatory behaviors. An aroused dog will often growl during a fight for status, territory, or self-preservation or when shaking wounded prey, but so may a playful dog modeling the aforementioned behaviors. Moreover, there usually is a discernible difference in pitch, volume, and duration between a play growl and a serious growl.
Consequently, although a growl shouldn’t be ignored, the growl should be analyzed in combination with the physical signs, not evaluated independently. Most importantly, an owner should consider the history of his/her dog. Ask yourself:
• Does my dog typically growl when playing with familiar dogs?
• Does my dog only growl when he/she plays with unfamiliar dogs?
• Is my dog’s growling usually only temporary, whereby it stops once he/she becomes familiar and comfortable with a dog?
• Or does my dog growl more frequently once he/she becomes comfortable and playful with a dog?
• Does my dog only growl when participating in certain play styles (e.g., boxing, chasing, nipping, et al.)?
• Does my dog only growl when packing with a familiar playmate and there is an unfamiliar third dog present?
• In the past, how have other dogs responded to my dog’s growling?
• In the past, in a similar context has my dog engaged in salient conflict immediately after or while growling or snarling?
If your dog typically growls with familiar dogs, when he/she becomes more comfortable with a dog, or when engaged in specific play styles and the growling has not resulted in conflict, then you should not worry.
On the other hand, if growling is atypical for your dog when engaged with another dog, occurs only with unfamiliar dogs, occurs when another dog instigates play styles with which your dog is conspicuously uncomfortable, or occurs when your dog and a playmate are bullying an unfamiliar dog, then you should temporarily or permanently separate the dogs, especially if one or both dogs exhibits a facial countenance or physical body language indicating overt tension or potential aggression. In many cases, given more time to acclimate, the dogs will play amicably. However, in other cases the dogs are incompatible and should be kept separated. Similarly, if growling or snarling has historically indicated a forthcoming conflict, then you should separate the dogs before history has the opportunity to repeat itself.
CPT recently conducted an observation and behavioral analysis of a client dog that behaved inconsistently at the dog park. During the dog park observation, when one-on-one or congregating with groups of unfamiliar dogs the client dog behaved admirably. However, once a buddy arrived, he and his high-energy friend teamed together while growling and bullying multiple dogs, which created overt tension with several humans present, which in turn elevated the verbal and physical arousal of the dogs, and resulted in a potentially dangerous conflict where the CPT Trainer felt it necessary to physically separate the dogs and remove the client dog from the dog park. Although the quarrel did not result in injury to any of the animals, the high arousal level was rightfully concerning to the innocent humans and dogs present. Therefore, since the client can not control when a familiar dog enters the dog park or when her dog will begin packing with a dog with whom he was formerly unfamiliar and since the client dog became too high in arousal with too little inhibitory control and obedience once aroused, CPT advised the client to avoid the dog park and instead schedule one-on-one play sessions within her fenced yard. Since taking CPT’s advice, the client dog has not had another reactive episode. In addition, for extra security, the client enrolled her dog in a CPT board train program, so that we could work on his obedience and inhibitory control amidst groups of dogs.
In addition, consider the other dog’s reaction to the growl or snarl. If the second dog appears unconcerned and clearly perceives the growl as playful, then there likely is no reason to worry.
If the vocalization is not a growl, but a single high-pitched bark, then your dog is likely happy, soliciting a hesitant dog to play, and/or soliciting a bored or tired dog to recommence movement. Yet, if the high-pitched bark is contained within a series of rapid barks, then your dog may be stressed, frustrated, or inconsiderate to a dog that does not wish to interact. In such a case, either provide your dog more time to acclimate, find your dog a more suitable playmate, or remove your dog from the surroundings.
One last thing to consider is that in many cases the most serious dog fights, where the intention of one or both dogs is to injure or kill, rather than to prompt the other party to retreat or submit, are quiet. Consequently, as stated above, evaluate physical body language more highly than you evaluate vocalizations when determining the intent and emotional state of a dog.
When my Aussie plays sometimes she slams her whole body into me, which hurts a lot! I grab her and tell her no firmly, but then she growls and tries to bite me like its a game. How should I react to her body slams? I want her to stop and this could cause an injury to either myself or her. I have been training her to sit before she gets attention to prevent her from jumping but when she is in this playful mood she will not sit on command… help please!
Why does my dog pretend to bite me?
If your dog is play biting, it’s a sign of affection; it’s gentle, he looks happy, and he might even be laying down. An aggressive dog, however, will growl, bark, or snarl, his body will be tense, and he’ll show his teeth. Aggressive bites are often faster than a play bite, and the big difference is you’ll feel it.
Rottweiler Gets Body Slammed By Irritated Husky At Dog Park
To put this in to practice don’t push your dog away if she jumps on you, rather, stand up, don’t make eye contact. If she still won’t stop jumping, then you need to turn away. The minute her paws hit the ground pat her and tell her she’s good. If she jumps again, repeat the standing up straight and ignoring her trick. Repeating this consistently teaches her how she needs to behave if she wants your attention.
Some dogs just get really excited when they are saying hello to people. One tip is for you to keep a toy handy to distract the dog and allow them to have that to play with, maybe throw that to them. Teaching your dog not to jump up on you and other people can be really tough. If you are having real problems with your dog and this type of behavior why not check out our team of professional dog trainers from our dog training helpline talking through options for how to handle this aggravating habit on our latest training webinar.
The GoodDog! Helpline team is comprised of experienced dog trainers who man a seven-day a week telephone advice service for dog owners. Get the ‘Why Does My Dog Jump On Me’ webinar here. https://www.akc.org/wp-admin/admin-ajax.php Get Your Free AKC eBook