Q. When we’re out on a walk, my dog gets stressed when runners or cyclists go by. He lunges and tries to run after them. What can I do?
A. It’s natural for dogs to want to run after an object that’s moving at high speeds away from them; this is the “chase” part of the predatory sequence. While the desire to chase is manageable in most dogs and is seen only in play, for other dogs, this instinct is so strong that they go after anything that moves, with cyclists and joggers being favorite targets. If your dog has never bitten anyone and is relatively calm when hes out on a walk, there are ways to redirect his chase behavior to appropriate outlets.
It is important to redirect the urge to chase; the consequences of your dog continuing this behavior can be serious, especially if he were ever to get off his leash. While most dogs would stop as soon as they caught up to the runner or cyclist, there are dogs who would nip or who may inflict major harm with deeper bites or a full-on takedown. Keep in mind, too, that the cyclist or runner being chased doesnt know if your dog is friendly or threatening, and may respond by kicking or hurting your dog in self-defense. Putting an end to chase behavior keeps your dog and the people hes sharing the road with safe.
Dogs who chase should always be secured on a sturdy leash set at a certain length and never on a retractable leash or long line. Head halters are beneficial for redirecting your pooch’s attention away from the swiftly moving person. An alternative for flatter-faced dogs is a front-clip harness.
If your dog has a history of biting people or if his behavior seems truly aggressive or predatory, the situation is much more serious. You should consult with a veterinary behaviorist or a certified dog trainer for strategies on handling this situation.
At almost a full year with this dog you’re well past what I would consider a reasonable probationary period where a temporary allowance for minor skittishness/snappiness might be considered and only if other’s safety could be guaranteed. Even with precautions you can only ignore a dog that is truly “snappy” so long. Too often the “snap” turns into a nip, which turns into a bite, which turns into the needle.
I’m not dismissing the seriousness of his chasing the two wheelers. I was asked a while back to provide a bicycling club with strategies to cope with all the “great” dogs that cross their paths. Ironically, one couldn’t make it as he’d been upended by a dog earlier in the day and broken a bone.
I think both of the issues you outline need to be addressed but I’d be reversing the order. However, I don’t ride a motorcycle and somebody stole my bicycle.
It’s important to make a dog familiar with a variety of wheeled things before 12 weeks of age. Not just bicycles, cars and motorcycle but skateboards and roller blades, wheel chairs as well. Even properly socialized, dogs with high prey drive or herding instincts can see these things as rabbits with a death wish or very large quick sheep.
I’m always a little worried when someone glosses over as serious an issue as snapping at people. Dogs that snap at people aren’t “great” dogs, at least not if the people that are getting snapped at get a vote.
Dogs who are fearful can also react in undesirable ways. Especially when restricted by a leash. Dogs who are fearful enter into a fight or flight mode. With no option to flee, they may become reactive. And it probably had worked! “I bark and chase and bite, and the bike leaves!”
There are lots of reasons why moving things can be scary. Cars and ATVs, for example, are loud and unpredictable. Some dogs have been under exposed to these items during their critical socialization period (3 weeks to 16 weeks), predisposing them to becoming more fearful adults. A not too uncommon reaction to something scary is to chase it (lunge, bark, and bite). The best defense is a good offense, right?
For fear, we can use the same strategy listed above. The most important thing is that we pair the trigger with something good (a high value treat) so that his emotional response changes from something negative and panic-inducing, to something predictable and positive. By offering treats when the trigger is visible, we can make a positive association with the car (car = treats).
Let’s discuss a few things to help Duke to stay safe and calm around moving vehicles.
Clearly car-chasing puts your pooch at a great risk of getting injured and possibly killed. Additionally, it’s a liability. Swerving to avoid your dog may mean that the car ends up injuring the driver or others around them. The same goes for bike-riders or skateboarders: your dog or the rider could easily be injured.
Training a Dog that Reacts around Bikes – Jeff Gellman Seminars
When your dog sees a bike flying down the way, their predatory instincts come into play. They chase it down like they would a squirrel or a cat because to them there is very little difference. … That being said there is a lot you can do to quickly train your dog to stop chasing bikes cars and skateboards.
Noises Dogs Hate Sirens, motorcycle engines, car horns and noisy garbage trucks are likely to be tossed into the mix. Even vacuum cleaners and doorbells can send some dogs into a full panic.